How to Discourage Breeding Behaviors

Eddie's Aviary

Administrator
Staff member
Discouraging Breeding Behaviors

© Laura Fratoni – Eddie’s Aviary -reproduce only with permission please

Have a Pet Linnie? Are you fearful your male pet may become aggressive towards you if he becomes hormonal, or have a hen you don’t want to lay eggs? Then this is the article for you!

Breeding Triggers Simply Explained: 3 Things notoriously trigger psitticines (hookbill parrots) to turn on hormones: 1. Light – any light source (through a window, full spectrum, or even ambient) in excess of 12 hours a day is a trigger as it mimics the summer season which is the fertile time, hence… breeding. 2. Feeding – high protein foods, feeding in excess of what they will consume in the day, and feeding fresh (cooked, chop, sprouts) mimics the fertile grow season (fantastic to feed young) which is in itself a trigger 3. Temperature – though Linnies happily breed in most any temperature, temps between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit should be considered a “sweet spot”.

Light: Provide your pet bird no more than 10-12 hours a day of light from any source (ambient counts). This can be difficult, especially in summer months.

Vitamin D3 supplements should be used as natural sunlight is impossible with indoor birds. Most contain calcium which can “build up” your hens and make them want to lay over time in some instances. This makes following these rules important.

Be mindful of ambient temperatures when covering with light block blankets as they can trap heat. A separate “sleep cage” can be utilized to provide your bird with the darkness they require, away from television or ambient light we often use in our homes after dark.

Feeding: In the wild, animals want to raise babies when the weather warms, days lengthen, and it is the “wet” or rainy season so food is in abundance. They seek moist and nutritionally dense foods (high in protein) to ease regurgitation to feed their babies and help them grow. In our domestic pets, we LOVE to feed them fresh foods, and often! When trying to avoid breeding behaviors, it is important to keep in mind that you can still feed a diverse and complete diet without triggering them. You just must keep in mind a few rules: 1. Frequency: Keep fresh offerings to no more than 2-3x per week, and feed only as much as the birds will consume in a couple of hours. We all tend to overserve that plate of good stuff, but the abundance of food (more than they need) can serve as a trigger. 2. Egg Foods are great for times of molt, but if you feed them free choice each day, they can increase breeding hormones in your birds because it is added protein, and so easy to feed to a mate or a baby…. It is a trigger. Be mindful if using an “austerity diet” (an article on this will be posted as a sticky in the breeding section) to prevent your birds from breeding, as when you slip up and feed regular… it serves as a trigger.

Temperature: Linnies can be enticed to breed in any temperature, so that is why it is important to watch the other triggers that are easier to control. Linnies, though notoriously more difficult to trigger than other species, they will happily breed in 50 degree Farrenheit – 80 degree F temps. Higher than 80 degrees, the nestbox can become too hot. Temperature is much more difficult to control than light length and feeding, so focus on those.

Spray Baths: Keeping our birds’ feathers clean is imperative to their ability to regulate their temperature, keep their feathers shiny and tight, but… those daily baths mimic the rainy season, so yes…. can be a trigger. High humidity can do the same, but we find those daily baths can push them over the “edge”, and if you don’t desire that… limit baths to 2-3x a week max.

Items in the Cage: What we place inside our birds cages can serve as breeding triggers. Covering the grate with newspaper is a trigger as they will get down into it and shred it, which is a trigger. “Sleep Huts” have been widely discouraged because of the potential danger with threads tangling. The often unmentioned issue with them is that they mimic a nest and can be a trigger, so should not be used. Toys that your bird may like to shred can also be a trigger, such as “bird kabobs”.

High calcium levels within a hen can bulk them up, and create a desire to lay to shed excess calcium. Be mindful of how much calcium your birds need to maintain a proper functioning nervous system, muscle and skeletal system, but do not overdo it.

Companions: If you have two birds of the opposite sex caged together, that will serve as a trigger. Opposite sex birds will pair bond, and WILL produce breeding hormones, possible problem over preening, and egg laying. If keeping Linnies as strictly pets, it is recommended that you DNA test prior to purchase, and keep only same sex pairs. Opposite sex birds should be caged independently.

Human Interaction: We all like to snuggle and cuddle our pets, but some forms of “petting” are considered breeding behaviors by our bonded Linnies. Stroking them over the back is a big no-no. It mimics a male “treading” the hen and can entice them to lay which is scary for most pet owners. We are adding a stickie for what to do when you hen gets “egg butt” or lays one.

Be mindful of how you “scritch” and cuddle your Linnie as these signs of affection can be misconstrued as enticement to breed.

Conclusion: Keeping a pet bird you want to remain a cuddly, great pet and not egg laying, follow these rules: 1. Keep only same sex birds together. 2. Don’t cuddle or stroke your bird excessively 3. Keep them out of dark places such as couch cushions, inside your shirt, or in dangerous sleep huts, reconsider covering floor grates with newspaper. 4. Do not feed fresh foods more than a few times a week, and be sure to only feed an amount they consume in a couple of hours 5. Don’t bathe them daily 6. Egg food should be provided only in times of molt 7. Limit light (ambient counts) to no more than 10-12 hours daily.

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jennylmay

Freshly Laid Egg
I had a male that recently passed away and was hoping to get another male. The breader that I found doesn't do sexing. The question I have, is it true that female linnies don't regularly lay eggs in captivity without a mate? I am hesitant to get a female because I have had problems with this in the past. I had a female cockatiel almost die and a quaker parrot actually die due to stress of egg laying. I don't want to deal with this issue again. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

Eddie's Aviary

Administrator
Staff member
The Lineolated Parakeet is hard to find for one reason... they are hard to breed! So, this means that females are very difficult to trigger hormones in for the most part. This makes a female Linnie unlikely to be a chronic layer. Cockatiels, budgies, lovebirds.... VERY prolific and difficult to prevent from laying. I like the temperament of females for pets in this species. You would want to try to avoid long daylight hours (over 12 hours can get hormones going), sleep tents, shreddable cage liners, or other "nesty" places. I do want to offer one word of caution.... any breeder that doesn't DNA sex their babies I would avoid. It is usually the mark of a novice or lazy breeder and usually goes hand in hand with not using a closed leg band, which means you won't know for sure the year the animal hatched (you could be sold an older bird), and usually indicates that they don't keep records. No record keeping can mean inbreeding and resultant genetic defects. Every owner of any bird NEEDS to know the sex of their bird as males and females do have different care requirements. Hope this information helps!
 

jennylmay

Freshly Laid Egg
The Lineolated Parakeet is hard to find for one reason... they are hard to breed! So, this means that females are very difficult to trigger hormones in for the most part. This makes a female Linnie unlikely to be a chronic layer. Cockatiels, budgies, lovebirds.... VERY prolific and difficult to prevent from laying. I like the temperament of females for pets in this species. You would want to try to avoid long daylight hours (over 12 hours can get hormones going), sleep tents, shreddable cage liners, or other "nesty" places. I do want to offer one word of caution.... any breeder that doesn't DNA sex their babies I would avoid. It is usually the mark of a novice or lazy breeder and usually goes hand in hand with not using a closed leg band, which means you won't know for sure the year the animal hatched (you could be sold an older bird), and usually indicates that they don't keep records. No record keeping can mean inbreeding and resultant genetic defects. Every owner of any bird NEEDS to know the sex of their bird as males and females do have different care requirements. Hope this information helps!

Thanks so much! This is very helpful! I was trying to avoid a long drive and found one closer to central NY than Pennsylvania. Maybe I need to do more research to find a reputable breader. I can always go back to my original breeder but she is all the way in Allentown, Pennsylvania.
 

Eddie's Aviary

Administrator
Staff member
You're welcome. I think going with a breeder you know is always preferable, but if this other breeder closed banded with 2021 hatch year, you can always DNA yourself if it is single Linnie you keep as a pet. I would ask why they won't do it. It is unusual they don't DNA any bird that isn't a sex linked mutation.... so it may be a red flag not to ignore. You can always fly a baby in with Delta Airlines if a drive is not doable.... but it does add to the cost significantly.
 

Lisa

Hatchling
Discouraging Breeding Behaviors

© Laura Fratoni – Eddie’s Aviary -reproduce only with permission please

Have a Pet Linnie? Are you fearful your male pet may become aggressive towards you if he becomes hormonal, or have a hen you don’t want to lay eggs? Then this is the article for you!

Breeding Triggers Simply Explained: 3 Things notoriously trigger psitticines (hookbill parrots) to turn on hormones: 1. Light – any light source (through a window, full spectrum, or even ambient) in excess of 12 hours a day is a trigger as it mimics the summer season which is the fertile time, hence… breeding. 2. Feeding – high protein foods, feeding in excess of what they will consume in the day, and feeding fresh (cooked, chop, sprouts) mimics the fertile grow season (fantastic to feed young) which is in itself a trigger 3. Temperature – though Linnies happily breed in most any temperature, temps between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit should be considered a “sweet spot”.

Light: Provide your pet bird no more than 10-12 hours a day of light from any source (ambient counts). This can be difficult, especially in summer months.

Vitamin D3 supplements should be used as natural sunlight is impossible with indoor birds. Most contain calcium which can “build up” your hens and make them want to lay over time in some instances. This makes following these rules important.

Be mindful of ambient temperatures when covering with light block blankets as they can trap heat. A separate “sleep cage” can be utilized to provide your bird with the darkness they require, away from television or ambient light we often use in our homes after dark.

Feeding: In the wild, animals want to raise babies when the weather warms, days lengthen, and it is the “wet” or rainy season so food is in abundance. They seek moist and nutritionally dense foods (high in protein) to ease regurgitation to feed their babies and help them grow. In our domestic pets, we LOVE to feed them fresh foods, and often! When trying to avoid breeding behaviors, it is important to keep in mind that you can still feed a diverse and complete diet without triggering them. You just must keep in mind a few rules: 1. Frequency: Keep fresh offerings to no more than 2-3x per week, and feed only as much as the birds will consume in a couple of hours. We all tend to overserve that plate of good stuff, but the abundance of food (more than they need) can serve as a trigger. 2. Egg Foods are great for times of molt, but if you feed them free choice each day, they can increase breeding hormones in your birds because it is added protein, and so easy to feed to a mate or a baby…. It is a trigger. Be mindful if using an “austerity diet” (an article on this will be posted as a sticky in the breeding section) to prevent your birds from breeding, as when you slip up and feed regular… it serves as a trigger.

Temperature: Linnies can be enticed to breed in any temperature, so that is why it is important to watch the other triggers that are easier to control. Linnies, though notoriously more difficult to trigger than other species, they will happily breed in 50 degree Farrenheit – 80 degree F temps. Higher than 80 degrees, the nestbox can become too hot. Temperature is much more difficult to control than light length and feeding, so focus on those.

Spray Baths: Keeping our birds’ feathers clean is imperative to their ability to regulate their temperature, keep their feathers shiny and tight, but… those daily baths mimic the rainy season, so yes…. can be a trigger. High humidity can do the same, but we find those daily baths can push them over the “edge”, and if you don’t desire that… limit baths to 2-3x a week max.

Items in the Cage: What we place inside our birds cages can serve as breeding triggers. Covering the grate with newspaper is a trigger as they will get down into it and shred it, which is a trigger. “Sleep Huts” have been widely discouraged because of the potential danger with threads tangling. The often unmentioned issue with them is that they mimic a nest and can be a trigger, so should not be used. Toys that your bird may like to shred can also be a trigger, such as “bird kabobs”.

High calcium levels within a hen can bulk them up, and create a desire to lay to shed excess calcium. Be mindful of how much calcium your birds need to maintain a proper functioning nervous system, muscle and skeletal system, but do not overdo it.

Companions: If you have two birds of the opposite sex caged together, that will serve as a trigger. Opposite sex birds will pair bond, and WILL produce breeding hormones, possible problem over preening, and egg laying. If keeping Linnies as strictly pets, it is recommended that you DNA test prior to purchase, and keep only same sex pairs. Opposite sex birds should be caged independently.

Human Interaction: We all like to snuggle and cuddle our pets, but some forms of “petting” are considered breeding behaviors by our bonded Linnies. Stroking them over the back is a big no-no. It mimics a male “treading” the hen and can entice them to lay which is scary for most pet owners. We are adding a stickie for what to do when you hen gets “egg butt” or lays one.

Be mindful of how you “scritch” and cuddle your Linnie as these signs of affection can be misconstrued as enticement to breed.

Conclusion: Keeping a pet bird you want to remain a cuddly, great pet and not egg laying, follow these rules: 1. Keep only same sex birds together. 2. Don’t cuddle or stroke your bird excessively 3. Keep them out of dark places such as couch cushions, inside your shirt, or in dangerous sleep huts, reconsider covering floor grates with newspaper. 4. Do not feed fresh foods more than a few times a week, and be sure to only feed an amount they consume in a couple of hours 5. Don’t bathe them daily 6. Egg food should be provided only in times of molt 7. Limit light (ambient counts) to no more than 10-12 hours daily.

If you enjoy this Forum, or the Content found here helpful.... consider buying the author a coffee. Helps with website costs, and keeps motivation levels up for more late night work. Thank you ♥ CLICK HERE to Buy Me A Coffee ♥
On one of the other threads where we were talking about breeding and caring for babies you or someone mentioned the parents may start to pluck the babies. It seemed like you were saying this is related to them wanting to have another clutch. Could you please explain?
 

Eddie's Aviary

Administrator
Staff member
Plucking babies come in a couple different types, and for various reasons. 1. Plucking "fuzz" - this means you need to watch to make sure it doesn't continue, sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Not particularly harmful to the babies. 2. Plucking "pins" - this is the removal of new feathers growing in, including the keratin sheath. This can be harmful as babies grow a tremendous amount in size, and in feathers in a rapid time frame. Once plucked, they need more protein in the diet to grow them back. It taxes them. If the parents continue to pluck as new feathers grow back, it gets more stressful on them. If the parents destroy the feather follicle, no feathers may come back, or the ones that do may be white (in a turq series bird) or yellow (green series). Babies that have been nutritionally deficient, or had excessive stress often show black "stress marks" in the feathering, even if the feathers all grow back in. Usually these molt out at the end of the first year.

Babies that are being plucked of pin feathers usually require handfeeding for a successful outcome.

Reason for plucking:
1. Parents want to start another clutch. Plucking is uncomfortable for the chick and is a futile attempt to get them to leave the nestbox so the hen can lay more eggs. The plucking almost always starts long before the babies are able or ready to fledge.
2. Stress. This can be due to physical stress from breeding, or psychological. Humans pestering the nestbox can also induce this.
3. Sodium or protein deficiency. Blood is rich in salt. Feathers and the sheaths are protein, so it is possible the plucking is a way to sustain the parents while they are under the rigors of feeding young.
 

Valley29

Freshly Laid Egg
Hello! Thank you for this article. I have two sister hens. They are so hormonal right now! I'm trying to find what works. They are getting less than 12 hours of darkness right now so I will work on that. They are caged together and at times I will find them in the act; one's leg is kicked up over the other. UGH.🥴 I have purchased small night cages for them to have a separate, boring, small space at night and not be together. But should I discourage this love act? I can't house them separately so I do let them out of the cage separately so they don't find themselves behind the sofa, together, in the dark.:rolleyes:
 

Eddie's Aviary

Administrator
Staff member
Google "austerity diet". Not much you can do besides the recommendations listed, "throwing a leg over" is ok, but can signal they may lay. Keeping a nestbox, calcivet and dummy eggs on hand does wonders for reducing stress when an egg butt may appear.
 
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