As someone brand new to raising babies I am looking for information on hand feeding. I have read that the best time to pull the babies to begin hand feeing is around but no later than 3 weeks. Will I need to provide heat at that time. I am working on getting a brooder in case I need to help with a younger chick as was discussed in the "Checking on babies " thread. It was mentioned in this forum that hand feeding is essential to producing tame babies and this is what i want. So....What is coparenting? Is there a way to hand feed and parent feed at the same time. My pair is not tame so it doesn't seem as they would tolerate that. Is it possible to get tame unafraid babies without hand feeding? Is it hard on the parents to take the babies away at 3 weeks? Thank you!
Hand feeding vs parent feeding vs coparenting
- Thread starter Lisa
- Start date
Coparenting can produce very tame babies without the work of handfeeding. The trick is to handle enough to get the babies used to being handled and looking forward to interactions. But you run the risk of the parents abandoning them if they’re skittish.
generally the best time to pull for hand feeding is 2 to 2-1/2 weeks old. theyre still young enough to readily take to handfeeding but have gotten a very good start from their parents. At three weeks old they begin to become difficult to take to handfeeding and it’s stressful for both them and you. At about 4 weeks old they naturally start to take less formula as they prepare to start flying.
Either way, you need to have all your handfeeding supplies ready if you are not letting the parents raise and fledge them. A brooder is a necessity as chicks not warm enough will not digest the formula correctly and this can be fatal.
brooder temperatures should be as follows
Days 1 to 5. - 97°F (36°C)
Days 6 to 10 - 91°F (33°C)
Days 11 to 15 - 85°F (29.5°C)
Days 16 to 25- 80°F (27°C)
humidity after hatching should be:
a range of 55-70% humidity produces quieter, fatter babies with a greater growth rate than those kept at levels of 15-35%
this can be achieved by placing a bowl of water with a strainer type lid in the brooder alongside the container of chicks.
generally the best time to pull for hand feeding is 2 to 2-1/2 weeks old. theyre still young enough to readily take to handfeeding but have gotten a very good start from their parents. At three weeks old they begin to become difficult to take to handfeeding and it’s stressful for both them and you. At about 4 weeks old they naturally start to take less formula as they prepare to start flying.
Either way, you need to have all your handfeeding supplies ready if you are not letting the parents raise and fledge them. A brooder is a necessity as chicks not warm enough will not digest the formula correctly and this can be fatal.
brooder temperatures should be as follows
Days 1 to 5. - 97°F (36°C)
Days 6 to 10 - 91°F (33°C)
Days 11 to 15 - 85°F (29.5°C)
Days 16 to 25- 80°F (27°C)
humidity after hatching should be:
a range of 55-70% humidity produces quieter, fatter babies with a greater growth rate than those kept at levels of 15-35%
this can be achieved by placing a bowl of water with a strainer type lid in the brooder alongside the container of chicks.
Really valuable information thank you! Is there a specific feeding formula that is best for Linnies? Is I necessary to keep the babies in the brooder during feeding or can I hold each one in my hand as I feed. At what point do I introduce real food? I’m assuming soft food first like the chop I make for the Adults but maybe chopped even finer or is it best to introduce only a couple of ingredients at one time?
I have always liked Kaytee exact and my babies all do well on it. But you can use any of the parrot handfeeding formulas.(regular though, not high fat or extra iron or whatever). Babies are fed outside of the brooder. I make feeding pillows that I heat up in the microwave to keep my babies warm while feeding then put each one back into the brooder after they’re fed.
But it’s important to have a feeding station set up with everything you need before you pull any babies from the nest. Formula needs to be between 100-110 F at all times. i keep mine at 106. Too hot and you will burn the crop and chick will die. Too cool and formula won’t digest fast enough possibly causing a blocked crop or slow crop allowing bacteria to grow and the chick could die. So be careful with that.
I start chicks on real food at 4 weeks. I put sections of spray millet in the brooder with them in between feedings. Then I introduce peas, corn, and apple. Then I add different things daily, different veggies, fruits, cooked grains, and sprouts. Then some pellets and some Linnie mix seed from Chirp Central. By 5 weeks they’re ready for a small starter cage. Still on 1 or 2 feedings at the beginning and/or end of the day. At some point they will refuse all handfeeding. Mine are considered weaned when they are eating a good diet all on their own while maintaining their weight for two weeks.
But it’s important to have a feeding station set up with everything you need before you pull any babies from the nest. Formula needs to be between 100-110 F at all times. i keep mine at 106. Too hot and you will burn the crop and chick will die. Too cool and formula won’t digest fast enough possibly causing a blocked crop or slow crop allowing bacteria to grow and the chick could die. So be careful with that.
I start chicks on real food at 4 weeks. I put sections of spray millet in the brooder with them in between feedings. Then I introduce peas, corn, and apple. Then I add different things daily, different veggies, fruits, cooked grains, and sprouts. Then some pellets and some Linnie mix seed from Chirp Central. By 5 weeks they’re ready for a small starter cage. Still on 1 or 2 feedings at the beginning and/or end of the day. At some point they will refuse all handfeeding. Mine are considered weaned when they are eating a good diet all on their own while maintaining their weight for two weeks.
LinnieGirl good answers! My opinion on those 3 methods of care, I bounce the question back to you.... what is the desired result? For breeding I like a hand fed hen with a parent raised male, or two hand feds. Parent raised will be wild, and not enjoyed as much by another breeder, and VERY hard if not impossible to tame. Co-parented I have tried, but the results weren't as good as hand feeding. That said, I have a couple friends that have done it with great success.... but they handled them ALOT and the parents were SUPER tame. That is my 2 cents on the matter.
I use Tropican hand feeding formula. I used to use Kaytee Exact, and had good results but found it to be "grainy" so it can get into the feathering of the chest and dry like concrete if a person isn't really good about cleaning them up after each feed.
I use Tropican hand feeding formula. I used to use Kaytee Exact, and had good results but found it to be "grainy" so it can get into the feathering of the chest and dry like concrete if a person isn't really good about cleaning them up after each feed.
Can you please recommend the frequency and how much volume to feed during each of these ranges of days? Should you just watch the crop to know when to stop feeding. What does the crop look like when it has the ideal amount of form
I have watched multiple hand feeding videos on utube but I am still unsure about exactly how prevent aspiration. It this a common problem? It seems everyone hand feeds a little bit differently.
I know this is a lot of questions but I want to do the best I can for them if I’m lucky enough to get babies!
the general rule is to feed 10-12% of the babys weight every few hours. For two week old babies I feed every 3 hours ( from 8am-11 pm daily.) to start and then reduce to feeding every 4 hours each day if they are eating well and steadily gaining weight. When baby is full, you will see the crop bulge. It should be full but not stretched tightly.
Make sure you have a good gram scale and weigh each morning on an empty crop before first feed.
aspiration is common if the person feeding is inexperienced. Feeding too fast or too much or down the trachea instead of the esophagus are all risks for aspiration with the latter being guaranteed death. Familiarize yourself with the birds anatomy online and see where the esophagus, trachea, and crop are located. Aiming the pipette/syringe to the left as you are looking directly at the baby’s head is how you want to feed.
LinnieGirl is correct in what she has stated. That said, I use an observational method instead. Both work, I find people just have different styles that feel right to them. Both have the same result at the end if you do them right. I don't weigh babies until fledging unless I have a specific concern. I can feel the meat around the keel and between their legs to see if they have enough weight on them. I don't measure the amount of food I give them as it varies so much baby to baby, feed to feed. I feed them formula until the crop is full, not bulging like LinnieGirl said. I feed with a pipette, as it gives me great "feel" of the food flowing into the baby. I don't talk on the phone, or allow any other distractions as I have that pipette bulb in the babies mouth. Anyone I ever knew that aspirated a baby did so when turning their head to talk to someone, answered the phone or some other thing to pull their attention from what they were doing. It is very difficult to aspirate a baby in actuality. Like humans, when swallowing... the airway closes. Slow and steady wins the race. If you are in a rush, you can squeeze too fast, or if the rubber gasket on a syringe is dirty, or old and dry and sticky, food can rush out too fast. That is why I don't use them. I don't trust myself to not push down too fast accidently. You watch them eating, swallowing and the crop filling as you feed them.
Improper brooders that don't hold steady and appropriate temps, formula that is too hot and burns a crop, or formula too thick or thin are much more common issues. Linnies are easy to feed as long as they are not pulled extremely late. That said, I find them fun and easy to feed at most ages. If you are starting out, I would focus on the purchase of a high quality brooder, and get your pair primed for breeding, I wouldn't worry about these feed amounts and times to feed so much early on because that changes based on when you decide to pull them to handfeed. Linnies can be tricky parents, and if you choose to intervene to save a young one.... all bets are off. We can offer more specific advice when we know the age of the babies you are dealing with. Having a brooder on hand as well as handfeeding supplies can really make a difference if you need to step in. A word of caution (easy for me to give since I just raised 2 from the first 48 hours of life after swearing 5 years ago I never would do it again) peeking in that box makes it really hard to leave a baby in trouble. Early hatches that need round the clock care can be really hard on your sanity, physical health and personal relationships. It seems after 5 years of swearing I would never do it again, my memory fades and I get sucked in again. Here is a picture of one of them on day 4 - it seems like they grow so slow you don't even notice it happening for the first week.
If you are trying to determine if you can fit handfeeding in with work/home responsibilities.... at the proper age of pulling (I like no earlier than 2 weeks... when they start to color in, better) plan on 5x-6x a day. I do 7am, 10am, noon, 3pm, 7pm, 10-11pm. I feed a little closer together in the mornings as it seems they burn through the food faster after the overnight. I find feeding more frequently yields babies that grow well, never beg, don't get stress markings in their feathering, and wean on schedule. You can see the crop when it is empty, I only like them going dry overnight. If your schedule doesn't allow this due to work.... if you did the first two feeds before you left, came back at lunch, fed the moment you walked in after work, then after dinner, and before bed.... you would be just fine. Incubator or early pulls need feeds round the clock.
Hope this info helps... I am up past my bedtime, let me know if something wasn't clear in my tired mind.
Improper brooders that don't hold steady and appropriate temps, formula that is too hot and burns a crop, or formula too thick or thin are much more common issues. Linnies are easy to feed as long as they are not pulled extremely late. That said, I find them fun and easy to feed at most ages. If you are starting out, I would focus on the purchase of a high quality brooder, and get your pair primed for breeding, I wouldn't worry about these feed amounts and times to feed so much early on because that changes based on when you decide to pull them to handfeed. Linnies can be tricky parents, and if you choose to intervene to save a young one.... all bets are off. We can offer more specific advice when we know the age of the babies you are dealing with. Having a brooder on hand as well as handfeeding supplies can really make a difference if you need to step in. A word of caution (easy for me to give since I just raised 2 from the first 48 hours of life after swearing 5 years ago I never would do it again) peeking in that box makes it really hard to leave a baby in trouble. Early hatches that need round the clock care can be really hard on your sanity, physical health and personal relationships. It seems after 5 years of swearing I would never do it again, my memory fades and I get sucked in again. Here is a picture of one of them on day 4 - it seems like they grow so slow you don't even notice it happening for the first week.
If you are trying to determine if you can fit handfeeding in with work/home responsibilities.... at the proper age of pulling (I like no earlier than 2 weeks... when they start to color in, better) plan on 5x-6x a day. I do 7am, 10am, noon, 3pm, 7pm, 10-11pm. I feed a little closer together in the mornings as it seems they burn through the food faster after the overnight. I find feeding more frequently yields babies that grow well, never beg, don't get stress markings in their feathering, and wean on schedule. You can see the crop when it is empty, I only like them going dry overnight. If your schedule doesn't allow this due to work.... if you did the first two feeds before you left, came back at lunch, fed the moment you walked in after work, then after dinner, and before bed.... you would be just fine. Incubator or early pulls need feeds round the clock.
Hope this info helps... I am up past my bedtime, let me know if something wasn't clear in my tired mind.
Thank you guys so much for all of this information!!
I really appreciate all your time and effort!!
Linnie girl I did as you recommended and looked up bird anatomy. I found lots of information on the Kaytee website about hand feeding. They also have charts you can use to keep track and document feeding and wt.
I really appreciate all your time and effort!!
Linnie girl I did as you recommended and looked up bird anatomy. I found lots of information on the Kaytee website about hand feeding. They also have charts you can use to keep track and document feeding and wt.
It is perfect thanks! Does it help prevent aspiration if you hold the babies upright for feeding? I watched a utube clip on hand feeding Linnies and the woman said Linnie’s like to feed laying on their backs.LinnieGirl is correct in what she has stated. That said, I use an observational method instead. Both work, I find people just have different styles that feel right to them. Both have the same result at the end if you do them right. I don't weigh babies until fledging unless I have a specific concern. I can feel the meat around the keel and between their legs to see if they have enough weight on them. I don't measure the amount of food I give them as it varies so much baby to baby, feed to feed. I feed them formula until the crop is full, not bulging like LinnieGirl said. I feed with a pipette, as it gives me great "feel" of the food flowing into the baby. I don't talk on the phone, or allow any other distractions as I have that pipette bulb in the babies mouth. Anyone I ever knew that aspirated a baby did so when turning their head to talk to someone, answered the phone or some other thing to pull their attention from what they were doing. It is very difficult to aspirate a baby in actuality. Like humans, when swallowing... the airway closes. Slow and steady wins the race. If you are in a rush, you can squeeze too fast, or if the rubber gasket on a syringe is dirty, or old and dry and sticky, food can rush out too fast. That is why I don't use them. I don't trust myself to not push down too fast accidently. You watch them eating, swallowing and the crop filling as you feed them.
Improper brooders that don't hold steady and appropriate temps, formula that is too hot and burns a crop, or formula too thick or thin are much more common issues. Linnies are easy to feed as long as they are not pulled extremely late. That said, I find them fun and easy to feed at most ages. If you are starting out, I would focus on the purchase of a high quality brooder, and get your pair primed for breeding, I wouldn't worry about these feed amounts and times to feed so much early on because that changes based on when you decide to pull them to handfeed. Linnies can be tricky parents, and if you choose to intervene to save a young one.... all bets are off. We can offer more specific advice when we know the age of the babies you are dealing with. Having a brooder on hand as well as handfeeding supplies can really make a difference if you need to step in. A word of caution (easy for me to give since I just raised 2 from the first 48 hours of life after swearing 5 years ago I never would do it again) peeking in that box makes it really hard to leave a baby in trouble. Early hatches that need round the clock care can be really hard on your sanity, physical health and personal relationships. It seems after 5 years of swearing I would never do it again, my memory fades and I get sucked in again. Here is a picture of one of them on day 4 - it seems like they grow so slow you don't even notice it happening for the first week.
View attachment 163
If you are trying to determine if you can fit handfeeding in with work/home responsibilities.... at the proper age of pulling (I like no earlier than 2 weeks... when they start to color in, better) plan on 5x-6x a day. I do 7am, 10am, noon, 3pm, 7pm, 10-11pm. I feed a little closer together in the mornings as it seems they burn through the food faster after the overnight. I find feeding more frequently yields babies that grow well, never beg, don't get stress markings in their feathering, and wean on schedule. You can see the crop when it is empty, I only like them going dry overnight. If your schedule doesn't allow this due to work.... if you did the first two feeds before you left, came back at lunch, fed the moment you walked in after work, then after dinner, and before bed.... you would be just fine. Incubator or early pulls need feeds round the clock.
Hope this info helps... I am up past my bedtime, let me know if something wasn't clear in my tired mind.
I would never feed a Linnie on its back. The parents do it occasionally but rarely have I seen it And I’ve watched thousands of hours of nestcam footage of my Linnies. Definitely more of a risk ( unless we’re talking about a chick less than a week old. They can’t stand up yet and you need to feed a drop at a time to the side of their beak while holding them belly up. )
So my Linnie’s have laid 5 eggs. The first is due to hatch any day. I am planning to pull them for hand feeding at about 2 1/2 weeks unless there is a problem and I need to start one earlier. I was thinking I would pull all at the same time to avoid the parents getting stressed since they are not tame at all. I just want all the babies to stay healthy.
is this a good plan?
if I pull them all I realize some are quite a bit younger than others. Do I adjust the brooder to accommodate the younger ones? Or will this cause the older ones problems? If the younger ones need to be fed more often do I just go ahead and top off everyone?
When should the calcium in the drinking water( they don’t touch any of the other calcium sources provided) be discontinued. After the female is done laying or is it good for babies?
Once again THANK YOU for the information!!
is this a good plan?
if I pull them all I realize some are quite a bit younger than others. Do I adjust the brooder to accommodate the younger ones? Or will this cause the older ones problems? If the younger ones need to be fed more often do I just go ahead and top off everyone?
When should the calcium in the drinking water( they don’t touch any of the other calcium sources provided) be discontinued. After the female is done laying or is it good for babies?
Once again THANK YOU for the information!!
I wouldn’t suggest taking them all at once. If all 5 hatch, there will be 8 or 9 day difference between the first one and the last. That’s a huge difference. When the first one is old enough to be pulled the youngest isn’t. You shouldn’t leave one by itself either in the nest or in the brooder. With a clutch of five, I pull the two oldest when it’s time. Then one more when it’s time, then the final two when it’s their time. Feedings start out at five times a day, then reduce to four, etc as they grow and age. Calcium should be given in the water if they won’t take it any other way, 5 days a week until the babies are pulled. It helps them strengthen their legs helping to prevent splay leg While continuing to help mom replenish hers.
I don’t start reducing the brooder temp much until all babies have been pulled, then slowly start reducing.
I too like to plan ahead... but I have learned in breeding that life doesn't always go according to plan. Having a brooder ready and up to temp, formula and supplies on hand is good measure. Try not to overthink it beyond that, and write again when you see what you are facing. Feeding frozen corn that you thaw and warm and toss in egg food (mashed hard boiled, dried egg or miracle meal are a few of my favorites.... freshly sprouted seeds added also great) helps entice even a reluctant pair to feel prepared to feed a new hatch.
I agree with LinnieGirl, add Calcivet to the water when new hatches are expected until at least day 10 to help form their skeletal system and prevent splay if they were deficient in the egg development stage.
We are all rooting for you! Spending some time cage side and blinking slowly, talking sweetly and positively I swear works! They are sensitive creatures and feed off our energy. Keep us posted!
I agree with LinnieGirl, add Calcivet to the water when new hatches are expected until at least day 10 to help form their skeletal system and prevent splay if they were deficient in the egg development stage.
We are all rooting for you! Spending some time cage side and blinking slowly, talking sweetly and positively I swear works! They are sensitive creatures and feed off our energy. Keep us posted!
I am so excited my Linnie's eggs are starting to hatch! It has been about a day now since we started hearing little squeaks ( day 23 from 1st egg ) but we can't catch both parents out of the nest box at the same time to check on babies. The few times mom has been out dad is in there covering everything. I am prepared to intervene if needed but don't want to cause undo stress. Please advise-
Normal behavior. Don't bother them until you see them both out. May be a few days before you get the chance. Best times are early morning when the lights go on and evening when the lights are going out. Mom will go out to poop and/or grab a drink. Very difficult and labor intensive to raise a day one to week old chick even for an experienced hand feeder, so not much you’d be able to do if they fail.
I know it is going well, but would love an update here as I am sure inquiring minds want to know. Lisa is in Washington state if anyone is looking for a lovely handfed baby. ;-)
So I am happy to report we have 4 babies that have been pulled for hand feeding! The oldest 2 that we pulled first are almost agile enough to climb out of the Tupperware container in the brooder. They are great eaters too! Of the 2nd two we pulled the youngest, the blue one is now eating well and growing well however the turquoise baby is not. She is not happy with hand feeding at all and struggles with every drop. She has lost weight yesterday and gained 1gm today but is clearly smaller and thinner than the youngest now. We are doing our best to make sure her crop gets full with each feeding but she struggles and shakes her head and looks stressed after the first couple feeding attempts. We have learned to keep the temperature of the formula good for her although the others are not picky now. So…. We are doing great with 3 of them but our little grey wing girl is really worrying us! 
Great pictures! Sorry for the struggles with that one. In this picture I am not sold its a girl, it could be sf gw male. Color on the head looks a bit bright to be a df (looking) hen, but too early to tell for sure. Hold off on telling prospective homes the sexes on the gw yet would be my advice. On the non gw (darker fuzz, darker toenails) I would send in dna now if you haven't taken the samples yet as if you wait much longer it can be harder to do when they are moving around a ton at fledging age. Good work! Share more pics as they grow, always fun to see them 